Ten Thousand Gates

I am writing this on top of a mountain.

Well, not quite on top. I'm on a terrace maybe 100 meters below the summit. There is a small restaurant here, and hikers can rest here before completing the climb to the shrine at the top.

My location is the Ten Thousand Gates, or (Torii) which is a symbolic gate that traditionally signals the entrance to a shrine, household, castle, or anywhere really. The Ten Thousand Gates is a pathway to a mountain shrine lined with literally ten thousand Torii – probably more. I'm not counting. It is Sunday, and an army of Japanese tourists have descended to visit this incredible place. Their laughter and conversation is utterly incomprehensible to me except as ideas; for every human knows what humor sounds like and the sound of exasperation and sarcasm and teasing and sweet nothings. Language changes the words, but rarely the tone. I immerse myself in the sea of humanity so close to my own people, but so fundamentally different.

The hike is by no means truly arduous for anyone in reasonable shape. I have seen men, women, children and the elderly plod their way past, all equally determined to reach the top. Various mountain terraces provide rest stops for the weary, and small shops line these to provide water, food, incense, candles, charms, and even ice cream. The restaurant I just ate at has a spectacular view of the city, and dominates the beginning / endpoint of a large loop leading up to the main shrine.

It is easy to get lost here, as various offshoots lead deeper and deeper into the woods, and straying from the main path means leaving the crowds. There are also nearly no maps in English, which is both frustrating and provides an interesting challenge.

I had planned to spend a maximum of two hours at Ten Thousand Gates, but I'm at hour four and considering staying for longer. I cannot hide the nagging feeling that I have not yet teased the secrets from this place.

I probably never will.

The true tragedy of travel is not being able to see all the places you would like to; I had hoped to visit at least three other sites today. Happily, this tragedy of missed opportunities simply results in the idea that you must visit again. My return to Kyoto, unplanned except for the faintest hint of an idea, holds a thousand plans and shrines and temples and markets and goals, all in the mind's eye.

-Doug