The entirety of the
complex of temples that makes up Angkor Wat stretches over an area that covers
more than five hundred square kilometers. Some temples sit far away from the
main site, strange ziggurats jutting above the landscape of the jungle with in
groups of three’s or more with a strange, single-minded presence. Others
cluster closer, within easy walking distance. Still others have been overtaken
by the jungle and it is at one such as this where Amanda and I spend our last
day.
There is an official
name for the temple, but the locals just call it the "Tomb Raider Temple."
Made famous by being the set for Angelina Jolie's somewhat notorious role as
Laura Croft – Fantasy Woman of Every 90's Gamer – the temple is actually one of
the youngest in the complex – an estimated two hundred years old. It was
abandoned at the end of the last Khmer empire, and the jungle ate it.
Now it is Amanda’s and my
playground. The Cambodians care about their cultural artifacts, they really do,
but they also let tourists walk all over them. With the exception of a few
obviously dangerous areas, visitors to the Tomb Raider Temple can climb up and
down the walls, navigate through maze-like passageways, and in general do whatever
they feel like as long as it doesn't involve picking up a hammer and taking
something home with them – which hasn't stopped some people.
The things that amaze me
are the trees. They spring from the temple with total and utter apathy at their
own glacially destructive power. Roots and vines push aside stone with all the
patience of implacable entropy – churning the earth, ripping apart the walls,
and burying the works of man beneath their might. One particularly fine example
erupts from the very wall itself, with roots hanging down like a green and
brown waterfall, anchored to the earth only recently – speaking in terms of
decades.
Nature has always been
my only true divinity. Since I was little it has humbled me, always in
unexpected moments, and in profound ways. I love trees; there are ancient
things in them and a solidness that is rooted into the very foundation of our
world. Often I have found myself touching a tree and feeling as though every
fiber of my being is on an alert – like I'm standing on the edge of a vast and
implacable knowledge or power that my mind can only grasp at the edges of; like
I'm touching the only truly real thing there is, and my brain just can't
comprehend that.
The trees at Angkor Wat
know of such things.
- Doug
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